Are You Aiming to Take a Whitetail Home?

The purpose of this posting is to talk about shot placement when hunting deer.

Basic Facts

The aim of every hunter should be to bring a deer down with a quick, certain kill.  Whether using a bow or a gun, the aim is to hit a vital area, so the animal does not suffer.

In general, bow hunters aim for the heart region. Thus, if the deer suddenly drops low before running away, your arrow may still hit the lungs.

The average whitetail weighs 150 lbs., and pumps about 8 pints of blood. If you do not kill the animal immediately, then massive hemorrhaging is necessary to bring the deer down.

Biologists estimate that a deer must lose 35% of his blood before he will fall.

Shooting a Deer Head-On                              

Generally, this is a shot for gun owners only.  This is because, unless the archer hits the animal dead-center, there’s a good chance that the arrow will deflect off a bone. Head-on, the chest area is a rather small area to hit.

Gun hunters have three vital organ areas available (head-on): in the neck, the lungs and the heart. Striking any one of these areas can cause the deer to drop dead, through shock or destruction of vitals.

A Broadside Hit                                                  

When a deer presents his side to the hunter, a well-aimed shot at the shoulder-blade can often drop the deer quickly.

Bow hunters need to avoid the shoulder-blade shot (arrow can be deflected by major bones) and zero in on the heart and lungs.

Quartering Away                                          

This  phrase refers to a deer that turns 1/4 the way towards or away from you (note the photo). This is a great shot for bow hunters. Even if the shot isn’t dead-on, it can angle through the body and still kill the game.

Gun-hunters also consider this a good shot. Most hunters aim to go through the deer to the opposite shoulder.

Bow-Hunters & Deer Hunting

The folks who use a bow to bring home food are a special breed!  Generally, they must:

• be less than 30 yards from their quarry,
• have to worry about their scent warning game,
• keep their movements down to a minimum, and
• have the physical strength to fell a deer with just one arrow.

Yet, they move elegantly and I admire their skill. You have to be a great hunter to down a deer with so many factors against your success!

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This blog is a companion to my website: EasyOnlineOrdering.com

If You Meet a Rattlesnake**

This is One Puppy I'd Leave Alone!

If you are camping, hiking, or even out hunting, you should pay close attention to your surroundings.  While you are enjoying the scenery or excitement of hunting, keep an eye out for a fellow-traveler … the rattlesnake.

If You Hear a Rattle …

You are probably within 4 – 5 feet of a rattler.  This is no time to decide to out-run the reptile.  This is the time to freeze-in-place.

If you patiently stay in place, you can out-last the snake and he will slither off.

If you start to run and the snake is ready to strike, there is no way you can move fast enough!  Remember that rattlers can leap forward one-half the length of their body.

And if He Bites?

Rattlesnake bites are very dangerous.  Remember how we learned to ‘cut and bleed’ the bite and then apply a tourniquet? Forget it!  That is s-o-o ‘old school.’

Within 30 minutes, the bitten area will swell up and turn black & blue. The accepted policy now is to use an ace bandage or soft cloth. Put it between the bite and your heart.

Don’t tie it as tight as a tourniquet — cutting off circulation isn’t the idea. The best plan is to hurry to get medical attention immediately after applying the bandage.

Interesting Facts About Bites

Not everyone who is bitten gets venom in the bite!  In about 30% of cases, no venom is transferred during the bite. Your best protection is thick clothing and leather boots.

Another surprising statistic has to do with the location of the bites: About 98% of snake bites are to hands and feet.

Finally

Rattlesnakes, or any snake, for that matter, prefer not to bother with you.  They would prefer to slither away — in peace.  Don’t force them to attack. It will ruin your day!

Don’t let your undies get bunched up over snakes.  Remember that we share the earth with snakes, and they were here first!  Just use caution and reason.  The truth is:  Snakes like you less than you like them!

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Jim sent this very interesting comment: “… rattlesnakes don’t always rattle prior to striking. I can’t sight my original source for this information but here is a quote from wikipedia (suppose to be referenced but I could figure out which reference when with what information). “Adult snakes may lose their rattles on occasion, but more appear at each molting. If the rattle absorbs enough water in wet weather, it will not make noise.” Just thought I’d pass it along….”

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This blog is a companion to my website, EasyOnlineOrdering.com

Optics # 3: Using a Spotting Scope While Hunting

Spotting Scopes and the Hunter

A Spotting Scope on a Tripod

Hunters who hunt for mule deer often consider a spotting scope to be their best friend.   Must you have  a spotting scope if you are hunting mule deer (or other large game)? No, but it makes the job a lot easier!

In a recent post, I mentioned that you do not want to carry a 10x pair of binoculars around your neck for any length of time.  Well, imagine dragging along something with 20x!

The Beauty of a Spotting Scope

There seems to be a direct relationship between the size of the game and the distance from which you need to spot them.  In other words, large game roams over larger areas and are weighed down with clever ways to out-fox the hunter.

If they can smell you or see you … they are GONE! How do you combat this problem?  With a spotting scope.

A spotting scope on a tripod will help you see over long distances while hunting in open country.  In fact, trophy hunters admit that a spotting scope is one of their most important pieces of gear!

Leave the “Sissy” Spotting Scopes on the Shelf

Your spotting scope will get plenty of wear.  Unless you only set-up your scope in your front parlor (to admire its looks), you need one that is durable and sturdy. Also, pay attention to the manufacturer’s warranty…things happen.

Spotting Scopes and Muleys

To get a shot at a mule deer, you will probably be shooting from a great distance — as much as 300 yards. Muleys tend to roam over large expanses of open territory. And this is where spotting scopes are at their best.

From the photo with this article, you can see that a scope is really a small telescope.  Because of its modest size, this tool is really versatile.

Other Things to Look For in a Scope

You’ll want all the clarity and brightness your scope can muster while hunting in the pre-dawn and sunset hours.  In the store, don’t be afraid of trying out several.

Compare the brightness and clarity of the image on one object (it’s easier to compare when the object is the same) — a trophy buck on the wall, a ceiling fixture, whatever.  Also compare the ‘field of view’ — you will want to see a large expanse at one time.

Another thing I’d want in a scope is a carrying case.  These are fine instruments and they deserve to be treated well.

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Full Disclosure: I sell binoculars and other optics. However, my mission in this article is to share information about using the proper equipment while hunting!

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This blog is a companion to my website, EasyOnlineOrdering.com

Part 2: More Info About Binocular Lenses

This is a continuation of last week’s article about binocular features needed by hunters.

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Magnification: Makes Objects Appear Closer than They Are!

But what does this mean? One x is what you can see with the naked eye.  Thus, a 7x binocular promises to magnify an image 7 times larger than with the naked eye.

Another way of looking at this is: A magnification of 7 means that the image you are seeing through your binoculars seems 7 times  closer that it really is.

Generally, the higher the magnification of a pair of binoculars, the narrower the field of vision. Thus, the closer the image appears, the less you see around that image.

If you are focusing on a deer with a pair of 8x binoc’s, you will see much more of the scene around that deer than you would with 10x binoculars.

Binocular Lens Diameters

The diameter of your lens determines the binocular’s ability to gather light. When the lens is larger, it lets in more light so you can see things in greater detail.

If you want more light during the hours when deer are most active (dawn and dusk), then 7 x 50 is a great choice. This is because , at lower power, your view will be brighter and you will have a wider range of vision than with stronger binoculars.

Objective Diameter: This is the lens at the opposite end of the glasses from the eyepiece; its size is expressed in millimeters. Essentially, it tells you how much light this pair of binoculars can deliver.

Understanding the Numbers: With a pair of binoc’s rated at 7 x 42, this is expressing – “7″ is the magnification and “42″ is the objective diameter (amount of light that can be gathered to see an image).

An Example of a Roof Prism

Prisms: In a nutshell, roof prisms are lighter but porro prisms provide a clearer, sharper image.

The roof prism can be more compact. With the porro lenses, however, you get more depth perception.

An Example of a Double Porro Prism

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Full Disclosure: Although I sell binoculars and other optics, I will not mention them in this article.  My mission is to share information about using the proper equipment while hunting!

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The 2 images showing the two types of prisms in binoculars are from Wikipedia. I am using them through the “Fair Use” Clause. This article is educational.

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This blog is a companion to my website, EasyOnlineOrdering.com

Today’s Humor: HOG HUNTING IN HOUMA , LOUISIANA

This is what I call a ‘retriever’

Training the “gator” is somewhat difficult….

As I’m still having a little trouble with getting him to bring the pig to me.

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‘Thanks’ to MDH* for this gag!

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MDH = My Deer Husband (Better known as: He who likes to be obeyed — but rarely is!)

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This blog is a companion to my website: EasyOnlineOrdering.com

Using Binoculars & Optics in Hunting

The suggestions included below will be of most value to beginning hunters.

Binocular Sizes

Binocular glasses are an important tool for hunters.  In order to be a successful hunter, you must  see the deer (or other game) before they see you!

A good range of power is between seven and eight power.  Typical optic choices are:  (7 x 35), (7 x 50), (8 x 30), (8 x 40), (8 x 42) and (8 x 56).  The most common choice for hunters is (8 x 40).

But what does this mean? One x = what you can see with the naked eye.  Thus, a 7x binocular promises to magnify an image 7 times larger than with the naked eye.

There is a direct relationship between power (size) and the brightness and view of an image. Remember that, in general, lower power optics offer brighter images and a wider field of vision.

Binocular Lens Diameters

(This will be an article on its own.  The facts a prospective owner needs to know cannot be covered in 200 words. Thus, I will cover this topic in detail in a future article …. with the exception of the next comment.)

The diameter of your lens determines the binocular’s ability to gather light. When the lens is larger, it lets in more light so you can see things in greater detail.

If you want more light during the hours when deer are most active (dawn and dusk), then 7 x 50 is a great choice.

Bigger Isn’t Better

If you are going to use these binoculars for deer hunting, don’t let anyone talk you into buying high-powered binoculars (10x). Most hunters wear the binoculars around their necks, so they are handy for quick use.

Ten power binoc’s are heavy and they become progressively more uncomfortable – the longer you wear them. ‘Neck strain’ sounds pretty goofy … until you experience it.  Ask me how I know!

Water Resistant vs. Waterproof

You will find yourself in too many humid and water-filled situations to trust “water-resistant” glasses. I wouldn’t trust any binoc’s that weren’t waterproof!

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Next Time: More info about Binocular Lens Diameters.

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Full Disclosure: Although I sell binoculars and other optics, I will not mention them in this article.  My mission is to share information about using the proper equipment while hunting!

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This blog is a companion to my website, EasyOnlineOrdering.com

Guess What? Your Mama Was Your First Hunting Instructor!

Mom Finally Gets Some Credit!

Most hunters do not realize that “dear ol’ Mom” was their first trainer in the fine skill of hunting.  Dads came along later, to take the semi-trained youngster to the woods for further instruction.

Let me show you what I mean.

Mom’s Hunting Tips

Your mother cautioned you ‘not to make a spectacle of yourself’ – an important hunting tip.  Great hunters stay in the shadows – out of direct sunlight. There’s only one word for hunters who walk along the tops of hills with the sun behind them – busted!

Mama was right when she cautioned you to ‘quit wiggling.’ No matter how well you’ve camouflaged yourself, too much movement will give you away.

The Importance of Smell in Hunting

Most large game have an acute sense of smell. So, when your Mama told you to take a bath because you smelled, she was offering good advice.

This is not a time to bathe with your new bar of “Obsession” soap. Neutral, non-scented soap is the best idea.

Hunters planning on stalking in pine areas sometimes store their ghillie wear in plastic bags, along with pine leaves.  Those hunting in dense woods often put a variety of leaves with their ghillie suits – so they will smell more natural.

How Deer & Ducks Use Light

Your mother provided excellent hunting training when she chased you to the bus, waving your mittens. Sweet thing that she was, Mama worried you’d catch cold.

Illness is the least of a hunter’s concerns. However, having one’s hands & face (and any other exposed surface) covered is critical because your body reflects light.

When a duck is looking down at a marsh and sees a flash of light, he continues on to a safer place. Deer also have an uncanny knack for seeing a single flash and knowing it’s time to move elsewhere.

Ghillie Wear as Concealment

If the hunter is relying on his camo and ghillie wear for concealment, he needs to remember Mom’s thoughts on this issue: “Child, go back to your room and take off that ratty shirt.”

She was really explaining that worn or faded camo does you little good. When the contrast (lights vs. shadows) is gone, so is your protection! If your image isn’t broken up by the lights and shadows, you will be seen.

“Don’t be a show-off,”  was just your mother’s way of reminding you that shiny objects are seen objects!

Like your face – a thermos, rifle scope, watch – has reflective properties. These items should be removed or concealed – either with contact paper or matte tape or whatever. Remember: Your solution must be matte (flat, no reflection) or it’s no good.

Sound Camouflage

When your mother queried you about “Are you ready?” and said, “Keep quiet when the visitors come,” she was doing her best to explain the importance of preparation for hunting. She was also trying to remind you to check your ‘noise factor.’

To be successful in hunting, preparation is critical. Realizing you need to travel back 100 miles to civilization to buy a can opener is a real bummer.

Oiling squeaks, gathering hunting supplies and food, checking your weapons – all calls for planning.  Game relies on noise and movement to save them from your dinner table.

When Mama asked you to look at something “from a different point of view,” she was offering another excellent hunting tip. Hunters are more successful when they are not at eye-level with their quarry.

Be up in a tree (10 -12 feet up), or sitting on the ground with your back to a tree. You want to see the “whites of his eyes” before your target sees yours! Be where he doesn’t expect you.

I could go on, but I think I’ve proven my point that your Mom was your first hunting teacher!

It just goes along with my other hypothesis: Your Mother is Always Right.

– (Signed) Mama

© 2009 by Marylouise of EasyOnlineOrdering.com

This blog is a companion to my website, EasyOnlineOrdering.com

Using Hunting Blinds to Increase Your Success in Duck, Goose Hunting

The Importance of Concealment

Concealment is an Important Part of Bird Hunting!

It is a known fact that concealment is an important factor in duck & goose hunting success.  But is camouflage – camo clothing – enough?  No, not really.  Remember that with a goose or duck’s life on the line, he/she tends to watch for hunters rather carefully.

However, to ensure success in hunting ducks and geese, you must control your movement!  One of the best way to hide your movements is to use a blind.

Blinds Come in a Variety of Shapes & Sizes

There are lots of low-cost solutions to the problem of hiding from duck and geese.  You just need to look around you and adapt your idea to your surroundings.

For instance, if you plan to  hunt in a cornfield, use corn stalks as your blind.  If you find yourself in rushes — make your blind of rushes!

It is important to use natural materials that fit into the environment where you are hunting.  Ducks and geese aren’t dumb … and they aren’t about to give up their lives to a dumb stunt like sitting out in a field, hoping the birds won’t notice you.

If you find yourself in a hayfield, gather up the grass into mounds and crawl into the center.  If you hunt  in the same place each year (lucky you), it helps to prepare your blind early and set it  in place, so the ducks get used to seeing it.

Duck & Goose Hunting from a Boat

Your boat should be camo’d for two reasons.  First, birds recognize boats as objects of the enemy.

Second, allowing the sun to glint off any part of your boat is a dead give-away of your presence.

Talking about glinting objects: Is your gun totally matte black?  If not,  you should acquire some camo patterned matte vinyl material to your gun stock to disguise it from the birds.

Movement

No matter how creative or  expensive your blind, your movements will scare birds away.  All the decoys in the world won’t entice game to come down … if they see a moving figure!

If you can’t sit still, you won’t be a success in bagging your limit of birds.

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Full Disclosure: Although I sell blind materials, I will not mention them in this article.  My mission is to share low-cost, no-cost solutions to hunting, angling problems and issues!

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This blog is a companion to my website: EasyOnlineOrdering.com

Adding Decoys to your Goose & Duck Hunting

Duck/Goose Decoys

Decoys Tell Ducks Flying Overhead, "Yum, there's plenty to eat here."

Even if your budget is tight, a few decoys are important to any duck or goose hunter.  MDH,*  in the early days, had a few realistic decoys for the edges — and filled in the center of his hunting area with newspaper or folded diapers!

My husband encouraged both of our kids graduate to underwear ASAP so he could have their diapers for decoys! When Richard started hunting, painting your own decoys was the standard!

Selecting Duck/Goose Decoys

I consider the 3 most important things to learn about the decoys you are considering are:

1. How much do they weigh?
2. How heavy are the decoys? … and
3. Will you be able to carry them where you need them freezing rain?

Most people look at price and the decoy’s looks without considering how easy the decoys are to carry and/or move around. This is a mistake.  You will have plenty of time to kick yourself for a poor choice (of heavy, odd-shaped, ineffective decoys)!

Getting the Drop on Decoys

Before dropping a wad of money in your sporting goods store, ask around.  What types do others feel are worth the money?  Is there any place these decoys are ineffective? Must you have a lot of them to have a convincing stand of decoys?

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More Soon: I’m flying today and hope to write more tomorrow!

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This blog is a companion to my website: EasyOnlineOrdering.com

Part 2 of 3: Hunting for Javelina and Wild Swine!

Wild Boar – Wild Swine – Feral Pig

Wild boar Smell Better than Javelina, but Don't Look Much More Attractive!

Wild boar were brought to the Americas from Europe as a domesticated food source many generations ago. Some strayed and became our ‘wild swine.’

In order to adapt to their environment, these ‘wild ones’ grew tusks and stronger snouts.  Obviously, pigs fed by man have little need of tusks and digging snouts.

What Hunters Need to Know

The senses of wild swine are very well developed.  However, the javelina is not so lucky.  Their sense of smell is excellent; but their sense of hearing is fairly poor and their sense of sight is poor.

Experienced hunters tend to listen for peccaries; table-manners are absent from the DNA of javelinas and, … well … they ‘eat like pigs.’  The noise of the peccary’s eating helps hunters get close enough to  shoot.

Javelina is Exciting to Hunt

Make sure you have this little stinker ‘dead to rights’ before shooting.  Javelinas are totally devoid of a sense of humor (Maybe it is because of all that cactus they eat!).

It’s an awesome experience to try to outsmart this wily and potentially dangerous creature! Generally, shooting a peccary is not the first choice of a hunter, around here.

However, things happen. When deer are in short supply at a hunting site, javelina make a ‘wild-and-woolly’ second choice.  You never know what they will do!

A javelina’s first instinct is to run away. However, they can become dangerous when cornered or once they are wounded.  It’s too late, at this point, to check on increasing your life insurance!  (; -)

These are ‘mean mama’s’ when injured.  They are definitely  Old Testament guys  with a belief in  ‘an eye for an eye.’  Hunting javelina is thrilling and scary!

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Next time: Finish this article

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This blog is a companion to my website: EasyOnlineOrdering.com